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SYMI

On the third day of our sailing trip from Marmaris, we cast off from Dirsekbükü as planned and, after a wonderful breakfast prepared on board, began making our way towards Symi. For once the sailors were lucky in the summer heat and a little wind appeared. That gave those of us trimming the sails something to do as we moved from one side to the other and carried on gossiping =).
We reached arid Symi around noon, its houses painted like sweets. Because we had neither our passports nor visas with us, we were not admitted through the main port. We then made the questionable decision to moor in nearby Pedi and went ashore by dinghy. We spent the day swimming, resting and sipping Greek coffee at a charming, peaceful place by Pedi Beach. This is a personal account of what happened on that old trip, not guidance for entering Greece. International arrivals must use an authorised port of entry and carry the passport, visa and other documents required for their nationality; check current Greek and Schengen rules before sailing.

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As evening approached, still making no concessions to elegance in our choice of clothes, we took the dinghy to a casual fish restaurant. We also stopped to explore the garden of a tiny chapel in a side street. After a wonderful dinner of fresh meze in quiet Pedi, we caught the last bus to the main town. The air-conditioned bus twisted through impossibly narrow streets, revealing beautiful views between the houses. Twenty minutes later we were in the centre. Contrary to our expectations, Symi was very quiet, so on a waiter’s recommendation we sat down at Harani Bar. I sipped a piña colada while we listened to music and watched teenagers dance.

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At around one in the morning we got up to find a taxi, only to discover the hard way that none seemed to be available after midnight. We panicked at first and even looked for a hotel, but a friendly waitress told us the walk would take about 35 minutes. So we began climbing the steps. We were drenched in sweat after scrambling like goats through empty, beautiful streets when we found a wonderful taverna with live bouzouki music drifting outside. The musician must have taken pity on us: he stopped mid-song, bought us a bottle of cold water, and everyone in the restaurant greeted us. After catching our breath, we continued and reached the boat at around three in the morning. It was a demanding finish, but a memorable adventure. Late-night bus and taxi availability is seasonal, so check current schedules and arrange your return in advance.

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