Nepal Travel Diary: Kathmandu in 2008

NEPAL

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It was February 2008. My parents’ university friends—who had never lost touch—and their children, who had been my friends since birth, met at Istanbul Atatürk Airport with my university friend Ezgi and my old friend Yasemin. We were quite a crowd. Airports do something strange to me: although I hardly ever crave Burger King in ordinary life, I suddenly want it there. Perhaps I simply enjoy paying more. After the usual airport waiting around, we boarded our flight and landed in Doha six hours later. We spent another six hours playing cards through the night, then began the four-hour Qatar Airways flight to Kathmandu. Qatar Airways was wonderful: real cutlery, good food, comfortable seats—and, best of all, a magnificent blanket. It later became an indispensable accessory for watching television in our living room. This story records our experience in 2008; airports, services and the city have changed considerably since then. 


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Four hours later, as the aircraft descended, we all opened the window shades to see this famous city from above. To be honest, our first impression was a little disappointing: unpaved roads and unfinished, unpainted houses made us wonder where we had arrived. As an architect, I could not ignore the airport itself. It seemed to be covered in red-veined marble, yet there was almost no electronic equipment in sight. The security gates looked wooden, though everyone respectfully walked through them, and the customs officers appeared to work manually, without computers. These are, of course, memories of the airport as it was in 2008 rather than a description of today’s facilities. 
As we left the airport, people placed flower garlands around our necks to welcome us. At the same time, men seemed to appear from nowhere saying, ‘Let me help you, madam,’ and reaching for our suitcases. We soon learned that they were enterprising porters who might touch the edge of a bag and then expect payment. Our bus was old, with small fans serving as air conditioning. 
We made our way through streets full of motorbikes, settled into the hotel and immediately went outside. The city had a distinctive smell. Many people were smaller in stature than us, and it even seemed as though the buildings and animals had been scaled to match. Do not be misled by my blunt first impressions: I had a wonderful time and grew very fond of the warm-hearted people. In a tiny tea stall with perhaps four stools, we sat beside an older man and drank milky ginger tea, choosing not to inspect the kitchen too closely. Kathmandu initially hit the senses because it was so different from home, but during the day we adjusted to its busy street-food stalls, open markets and visible poverty. By the time we reached the centre, life felt more fascinating still: motorbikes and bicycles were everywhere, and children asked us to take their photographs in the hope of receiving sweets. Dear blog, I had my first bamboo-shoot soup in Nepal—and it was delicious.

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If I continue like this, the story will never end. I will save the cremation ceremonies, the man who tried to sell us hashish in a bar, and the band that shared its rice with us for another post. We also learned that prayer flags are traditionally hung high so that the wind can carry the prayers. After two days we continued to India, but that is tomorrow’s story. Take care—sending love.

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