To be honest, Cambodia had not quite won us over during the journey that began in Siem Reap. After visiting the extraordinary Angkor Wat and spending our first evening in Phnom Penh, we even wondered whether we should cut the holiday short and return home to Kuala Lumpur. Fortunately, the trip was due to end on an island, so we abandoned that idea and tried to enjoy the moment.

Once we escaped the chaos of Sihanoukville and boarded the ferry, we did not expect such a beautiful island to be waiting for us. The closer we came, the paler the water became until it was almost transparent. As the ferry slowed, we could not decide whether to stare into the turquoise sea beneath us or at the spectacular beach ahead. Tuğçe and I exchanged another look and agreed that going home would have been a very silly decision.

The pier where we arrived was about one kilometre from our hotel, but the sand was firm enough for us to walk there with our suitcases. Koh Rong Sanloem is often included in travellers’ lists of exceptional tropical islands, and it was certainly one of the loveliest we had seen. Pier names, landing points and beach access have changed over the years, so confirm the correct pier with your accommodation before travelling.

For us, Koh Rong Sanloem had several advantages over neighbouring Koh Rong, so we chose it for the island portion of our holiday. At the time it felt more like a quiet holiday island than a party destination, and Saracen Bay was remarkably clean. Conditions vary by beach and season, however: sandflies can occur on Cambodian islands, development has changed parts of the coast and no beach is guaranteed to be litter-free. Pack insect repellent and check recent reviews rather than relying on an old comparison.

KOH RONG SANLOEM BEACHES

Saracen Bay

One of Koh Rong Sanloem’s main attractions is Saracen Bay, where our hotel stood. The long crescent of pale sand was the island’s largest and busiest beach during our visit, framed by jungle and clear water. We especially liked the relatively refreshing sea. There were no noisy water sports or persistent beach vendors then, so walking from one end to the other, using the swings in the shallows and taking photographs could easily fill half a day. The bay has developed since our trip, so expect today’s atmosphere and facilities to differ.

Lazy Beach

A roughly 1.5-kilometre trail from Saracen Bay leads to the western side of the island, where the scenery changes completely. Instead of white sand, Lazy Beach has golden sand and cooler, clear water. It reminded us less of a tropical island than of Marathokampos Beach on Samos, where we had spent two summers. Lazy Beach Resort, one of the island’s long-established properties, was the most prominent business on the shore. Its landscaping, staff and architecture made it a place where we could happily have spent days rather than hours. Trail and resort access can change, particularly in wet weather, so check locally before setting out.

Sunset Beach

Neighbouring Lazy Beach on the island’s western side, Sunset Beach is another golden-sand shore reached by a jungle trail. Apart from a few accommodation businesses, it felt wonderfully secluded during our visit and, as its name suggests, is known for its sunsets.

THINGS TO DO ON KOH RONG SANLOEM

On a tropical island, deciding what to do can be surprisingly difficult. The possibilities may look limited at first, but our list of things to do on Koh Rong Sanloem quickly became rather long.

Still not convinced? Here are a few ideas :D

Some people had lived on the island for four years without ever seeing this particular view.

Let us begin with the simplest option: do nothing. As the Italians say, dolce far niente—the sweetness of doing nothing. Instead of rushing from place to place, spend the day lying on the beach. If you tire of the sand, move to a hammock over the water. If the sun becomes too strong, find shade and listen to the waves. We get exhausted by frantic holidays; I still remember how much America wore us out :D

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If you do want something more active, local dive centres may offer training and PADI courses. Night-time bioluminescent-plankton trips are another popular activity, although visibility depends on darkness, weather, water conditions and the lunar cycle; there is never a guarantee. Check that any dive or boat operator has suitable safety equipment and current credentials before booking.

For a glimpse of local island life, you can visit M’Pai Bay, a village with guesthouses and restaurants. We had already spent plenty of time talking with people on the mainland and chose not to go on this trip.The island also has walking trails and, depending on current conditions, bicycle hire. We did not see a single bicycle during our four-day stay. If you explore independently, wear proper footwear, carry water and remember that snakes and other wildlife may be present; never approach or attempt to identify one yourself.

When evening arrives, a handful of beach bars and venues may stay open late. Octopussy and Jungle Republic were among the better-known names during our visit, with DJ nights or film screenings. Island businesses change frequently, so confirm that a venue is still operating before making plans around it.

WHAT TO EAT ON KOH RONG SANLOEM

After two days we realised the island’s food choices were limited, but the French-style baguettes and surprisingly well-grilled fish and seafood won us over. In the evenings, many hotels set up barbecues on the beach, often offering barracuda or the tasty but bony fish sold as red snapper. A meal cost us about US$7–8 at the time—this is a historical price from 2018, not a current guide. Noodles, grilled prawns and squid were also widely available. Some kitchens grilled fish directly, while others wrapped it in foil with spices and juices, so choose the style you prefer.

The fish were cooked on enormous barbecues like these...

...and eaten with the sand beneath your feet.

We never imagined finding pide made by a Vietnamese cook on a Cambodian island, yet beside our hotel was a restaurant serving familiar flavours such as pide, lahmacun and hummus. Discovering food from home felt wonderful, especially when we learned that the owner was Turkish. Ingredients were understandably adapted to island availability, but we enjoyed the dishes—and watching other travellers react to balloon bread could entertain us for hours :D

Our view...

Our pide restaurant...

Another option is to bring a few supplies from the mainland. We had carried snacks all the way from Malaysia, which made several lunches cheaper. Bottled water was expensive on the island during our stay, so ask your accommodation about safe drinking-water refills and bring what is practical from Sihanoukville without creating unnecessary plastic waste.

WHERE TO STAY ON KOH RONG SANLOEM

Koh Rong Sanloem has accommodation for a range of budgets. Some businesses offer both dormitories for backpackers and private bungalows, with or without air conditioning. Ours had no air conditioning, although other bungalows at the same property did. During our season, the ceiling fan was more than enough. Electricity, hot water, Wi-Fi and air-conditioning arrangements can differ widely, so check the exact room description rather than assuming island-wide standards.

We could not find some island properties on online booking platforms. At the time, several sold rooms directly because demand was already strong. We could not find a good-value direct option, so we booked online. Private rooms we saw were around US$30–35 a night and dorm beds around US$10—historical 2018 prices only. Choosing took longer than on any previous trip because standards and value varied so much. Eventually, we found a clean room without bedbugs and were pleased with it; breakfast was even included despite not appearing in our booking. Service customs and noise around rooms differed from what we were used to, so recent, specific guest reviews are especially useful. Treat our experience as a snapshot, not a judgement about Cambodian people or present-day hospitality.

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ORCHID RESORT

Our hotel, Orchid Resort, offered air-conditioned and fan-cooled bungalows. Ours was simple but clean by the island standards we encountered, with a wide double bed, an intact mosquito net, two chairs and a makeshift wardrobe. Having a private bathroom and hot water was a welcome comfort. We were also repeatedly given breakfast, although it was not included in our package. The only thing that worried us was the dark navy bedding, so we used the sheet and pillowcases we had brought. This describes our stay in 2018; verify the property’s current operation, ownership and room standards before booking.

GREENBLUE BEACH BUNGALOWS

This property occupied what we thought was the loveliest part of the beach, and its careful management was visible from a distance. The owners and several team members were Turkish. Guests could stay in small tower-like bungalows or more affordable dorms, and the restaurant was one of the rare places playing music we enjoyed. There was even menemen—but, sadly, no backgammon when we visited. If the business is still operating when you go, send our regards (if they remember us!).

MOONLIGHT

Moonlight had the island’s most striking exterior during our visit: immaculate white bungalows and a blue-domed restaurant that looked as if it had been transported from Santorini. The restaurant staff were warm and friendly. Check current photos and reviews, as properties can be renovated or change management.

MAD MONKEY HOSTEL

Although Koh Rong Sanloem felt quieter than Koh Rong, Mad Monkey operated as a social party hostel in its own bay. Guests arriving at Saracen Bay transferred to the hostel’s boat. It was a well-known name among backpackers and a convenient place to meet other travellers. Hostel locations and boat transfers can change, so confirm the current arrangement directly.

LAZY BEACH RESORT

Possibly the island’s most beautiful resort. We did not see the rooms, but the beach, restaurant and reports we read were persuasive. At the time, reservations were made directly through its own website and every room was booked well before our arrival. It did not offer Wi-Fi then, although the bay was so lovely that Instagram would probably have been the last thing on your mind. Confirm today’s facilities and booking policy with the resort.

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HOW TO GET TO KOH RONG SANLOEM

The usual way to reach Koh Rong Sanloem is by passenger ferry from the mainland. We travelled from Sihanoukville with Speed Ferry Cambodia; other operators have included Island Speed Ferry, Buva Sea and GTVC. Routes now serve different island piers and some services may also operate from Kampot. Journey times, departure points and fares vary by operator, weather and destination pier. Ask your accommodation which pier you need, then check the operator’s live timetable before buying. Our US$12 outward and US$10 return fares are historical 2018 prices, not current estimates.
Before buying the fast-ferry ticket, we tried to find a cheaper supply boat. People told us it no longer carried passengers, although we later heard that such a boat might leave from another port five or six kilometres away. Once the tuk-tuk fare was added, the saving disappeared, and we never confirmed whether that service actually ran. Do not rely on informal cargo boats: use a licensed passenger service with appropriate safety equipment.

We did not consider the all-day party boat because we wanted to leave the mainland quickly. Several fast-ferry companies were operating and calm weather made tickets easy to find. On the return, rougher seas disrupted sailings and passengers from several departures were crowded onto one small boat. The experience reminded us how quickly island transport can change. Weather-related delays and pier changes remain possible, so leave buffer time—especially before a flight—and follow the operator’s safety instructions.

At the time, mainland passengers were asked to check in an hour before departure and received a tag showing their island and pier. For the return, our hotel or the operator’s local desk confirmed the booking the day before. Procedures now vary, so follow the instructions on your current ticket and reconfirm when weather is unsettled.

16 January 2018